Now that’s what I call 90s

Are all LFW designers glued to Channel 4’s This Is England ’90? It would appear so, if the shows’ 90s soundtracks are anything to go by.  »

It’s hip to be hyper feminine

“Delicate” and “textured” were words Simone Rocha used to describe her prettiest collection to date. It wasn’t just the setting of 19th-century palace Lancaster House that gave the show a Princess Diaries feel.  »

Jewellery gets personal

“Becoming a jewellery designer has become a trend in itself,” says Leila Kashanipour of LeiVanKash, who is at the BFC Designer Showrooms, where jewellery labels now occupy one-third of the space. »

The indiscreet charm of the bourgeoisie

We saw it in New York, “bourgeois chic” reinvented, albeit in an American, old money, Park Avenue kinda way – super-luxe, just-so pieces transformed by Marc Jacobs using innovative fabric treatments; ladylike checks and fox-fur collars at Altuzarra, and Bloomsbury Set styles updated by Thakoon. »

How to play the clavicle

Clavicle-skimming tops have been bubbling under for a while, but the London shows affirmed that giving good shoulder is important for SS15.  »

Things to love by September

‘Modern femininity’ is the legacy of LFW for Paula Reed of; for The Observer’s Jo Jones, it’s all about “patchwork... It’ll be huge!” Besides seeing brown usurp black, textiles obliterate print and listening to a lot of Debbie Harry, what else has happened? Here’s our roundup. »

Designers pump up the volume-lite

“We wanted the knits to be as light as we could possibly make them,” said J.W. Anderson of the ultra-fine viscose yarn he spun into gossamer at his show, pinning down the trend for light-as-air fabrics that is breezing its way through the SS16 collections – a trend that The Daily wags have coined “volume-lite”. »

Undressed to impress

Eschew fastening your buttons, tucking in your shirt and zipping up your trousers… it’s time to master the art of undressing, or is that not getting fully dressed at all? In New York, Rachael Wang and Leandra Medine were walking around with their flies open. »

The art of colour

Yeah. We know. There’s been an awful lot of black. But hold on: there have been jolts of colour offsetting all that noir, too, giving the gothic and the neo Victorian-inspired a thoroughly modern kick. »

Good reasons to be cosy

Aside from the Siberian conditions experienced at NYFW and the plummeting mercury here, there were many reasons why cosiness had preoccupied designers’ minds.  »

Height of fashion

How to get the front row more animated than the panel of Loose Women discussing HRT patches while consumer-testing espresso machines? Even at 9am on a Sunday morning? Throw in a question about flat shoes. »

Brown in town

Sometimes a trend will take a little while to sink in. It all started at show one on Day 1, with J JS Lee’s ‘muddy puddles’; but took until exit 11, Christopher Kane, mid-morning on Day 4, to suddenly hit critical mass. »

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