Catwalk

September 22, 2010

Burberry Prorsum

Question: How many ways can you wear a trench? Christopher Bailey has a knack for updating and reinventing this wardrobe classic, and this season was no exception. Read more »

Fashion East

This year, Fashion East celebrates its tenth anniversary, and founder Lulu Kennedy invited Heikki Salonen and newcomers Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha to the party. Read more »

September 21, 2010

Christopher Kane

Kane is the master of taking something that could be repellent and turning it into the main event of his collections. Read more »

Roksanda Ilincic

The clusters of flowers that decorated the pillars at Roksanda Ilincic’s venue on Bloomsbury Square were a hint of what the colourist had in store for us for Spring/Summer 2011. Read more »

Mark Fast

Fast found fame quickly for his super-stretchy, totally unforgiving knitted dresses, after moving swiftly from completing his MA at Central Saint Martins to showing at LFW a couple of years ago. Read more »

Erdem

“It was all about the Ballets Russes,” said Erdem Moralioglu backstage after his pretty show, set beneath the plane trees of Bedford Square in Bloomsbury yesterday. Read more »

Antonio Berardi

Let’s start near the end: an army-green mac thrown over powder-pink satin in the form of a lady’s blouse and loose, low-crotch trousers, followed by the sweetest of finale dresses spilling silk crocus buds down the front. »

Twenty8Twelve

The media hoopla surrounding Savannah and Sienna Miller’s Twenty8Twelve collection for S/S 11 will centre on the presence of Jude Law on the front row. »

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Christopher Kane has become masterful at delivering a clear, concise message, season in, season out. »

Julien Macdonald

In a grand setting in Whitehall, Julien Macdonald continued to set the pace of change in his label. »

house of holland

Henry Holland is all about instant gratification; his front row provides plenty of activity – yesterday afternoon it was courtesy of Mr Hudson, Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof and Marina Diamandis. »

Illustration at Danielle Scutt

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Michael van der Ham

Any piece by Michael van der Ham is so beautiful, so unique in its construction and so desirable in an age of cookie-cutter, mass-produced schmutter, that it is truly hard to bring oneself to ask the question: what next? Will these brilliant patchworks of fabric and era continue to wow, and, if so, for  how long? The designer said that the Forties had particularly inspired his current “montages” and proceeded to point out the introduction of print –black rain splashes on silvery silk and ornate patterns, like flocked wallpaper, on devoré velvet – all highlighted his incredible instinct for colour. »

Emilio de la Morena

When I heard that Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Kate Moss and Leighton Meester loved Emilio de la Morena’s high-fashion cocktail dresses, I thought: “Hmmm. »

MARIOS SCHWAB

If his first season at Halston was a distraction for Marios Schwab, he definitely didn’t show it in the strong, polished collection he sent out yesterday. »

TODD LYNN

A ripple of excitement went through the crowd as the lights went down for Todd Lynn yesterday – and then the paparazzi descended. »

Michael Van Der Ham

Florals, flashes of neon-pink, swirling seams, sheer panelling, mohair… and that was just one dress. »

Catwalk Highlights a la Disney Rollergirl

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Julien Macdonald

It was great to see Julien Macdonald on romantic form.“I’m goin’ softer as I’m getting older,” he said with a smile backstage, post clinch with Elle Macpherson. »

Topshop Unique

If anyone was in doubt that the Seventies are the mega-trend in the making for S/S 11, then the Topshop Unique show was the decider. »

ROKSANDA ILINCIC

From the voluminous crimped hair and glossy Seventies make up to the upbeat disco tunes, Roksanda Ilincic was in a New York state of mind for autumn, giving us a super-polished collection that was, she said, “all about the beauty of winter fabrics, their textures and the way they can be sculpted around the body. »

AQUASCUTUM

We’ve been keeping a close eye on developments at Aquascutum, holding our collective breath last season when the business was sold. »

Emilio de la Morena

Emilio de la Morena’s star has been on the rise for a few seasons now.And this season, it sparkled. »

Live Catwalk Illustration at Headonism

piabramley.co.uk. »

Acne

As if to add to the slightly eccentric aura that hovers over this Swedish brand, Acne chose Kensington Palace, and specifically Princess Margaret’s former apartment, in which to launch itself on the catwalk. »

House of Holland

Good for Henry Holland.In the past year, he has seen his business move from a shoe-cupboard of a studio to one ten times the size, and he recently signed a two-year global deal with Pretty Polly. »

Jaeger

Jaeger’s reinvention continues apace under Design Director Stuart Stockdale.For A/W 10, he focussed on traditional fabrics, from camel hair – which the brand was using more than a century ago – to sheepskin, leather, cashmere and wool mohair. »

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

Jaws dropped when the Meadham Kirchhoff show began.Used to seeing black, moody collections from Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff, the Arabic rugs, streams of tinsel on the floor and Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring should have been a clue that this would be a bit different. »

DAKS

Who would have thought that it would take an Italian to bring Daks back to its great British roots? Taking on a luxury design house with heritage (115 years of it, to be precise) is no mean feat, but Creative Director Filippo Scuffi sent out a collection that was note perfect. »

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