The Margiela effect

Tuesday 23 February 2016


report By Tamsin Blanchard Photography by

The spirit of Margiela hung over several presentations this weekend, not least at Faustine Steinmetz, Claire Barrow, Phoebe English and the CSM MA show. But Antwerp design duo An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx, who brought their AF Vandevorst collection from Paris to London for the first time, are the real deal. “It’s another energy here,” said Arickx after the show. “Paris feels old and heavy,” added Vandevorst.

Their collection – tailoring, raw denim, joggers, biker jackets – had that underground feeling (right). “It’s about a woman who wants to live every moment of her life 100 per cent,” said Vandevorst. “Her wardrobe became a collage of all the clothes she has, so she can leave in the morning and be dressed for every occasion.”

The show make-up was by Inge Grognard, the go-to make-up artist for the Belgian set. She worked with Margiela for over 20 years, and is now working with Vetements and Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. “I felt the Margiela influence when Vetements was starting,” said Grognard. “It’s like that excitement I had in the 80s and early 90s, which I was missing for a long time: you’re in fashion, you can experiment. I feel here and there, there are souls again.”

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