REPORT by David Hayes Photography by Sean Cunningham
“The press release says it all, really,” are not the opening words you want to hear from a designer after their show. But at Christopher Kane that statement rang pretty true. “I have always been obsessed with recluses and the image of the outsider making their own world by hoarding things away,” said Kane in print.
And on the catwalk? It was much the same story: “These women are collector-maniacs: super-glamorous like ex-pianists and artists… they are reclusive and create their own beauty.”
That peculiar beauty came in the form of leather, intricately corrugated to look like cardboard boxes, ‘rubbish’ photo prints of roses stuffed into plastic bags, flotsam and jetsam-strewn shoes, plastic-bag headscarves, bits and bobs of adornment (by Lesage) and lots of feathers. “She might have had a dead parrot in the house somewhere?” wittily offered the real Kane.
As with all the young Scot designer’s shows, the back story isn’t always the full story. ‘Crazy-lady-hoarder’ might be the headline styling trick – and one that had a slightly uncomfortable echo of John Galliano at his most socially irreverent – but at a closer look the clothes told a much more desirable tale. Black cut-away trouser suits adorned with handcrafted buttons, rose-motif lace gowns, cosy knits edged with outsized shag, lean single-breasted tweed coats, and sweaters emblazoned with a giant curly ‘K’ – these will be the pieces that women will proudly admit to hoarding next season.