Report by Julia Robson Photography by Sean Cunningham
Antonio Berardi’s show notes yesterday spoke of “an undone feeling”, pinpointing a trend we’ve seen – off and on the LFW catwalk – all week.
“New York felt uptight by comparison,” muses the London Evening Standard’s Karen Dacre. “It’s a relief to see designers finally showcasing clothes as they will be worn,” she adds, referring to the elegant, déshabillé-by-design mood we first spied at J. JS Lee with her asymmetric hemlines, and with Eudon Choi’s drawstrings that loosely secured clothes in place.
Even the designers known for sharp tailoring have embraced this new louche mood. Think airy, soft super-light fabrics in key pieces that together nonchalently reveal an erogenous zone. Take Jonathan Saunders’ silky kimono jackets and asymmetric, slivered skirts with their loosely undone Isadora Duncan-feel ribbon ties, or Roksanda’s tops, with ruffle organza pom-poms, sliding off one shoulder. While at Antonio Berardi, a silk trench coat layered over a floor-trailing slip was held artfully in situ by a crystal bra harness (above). “It can be unbuttoned,” Berardi reassured us. And, adds the BFC’s Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, the show’s stylist, “it’s still sexy, but not in a va-va voom way.”