PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATWALKING.COM
REPORT BY CARYN FRANKLIN, COMMENTATOR AND CO-FOUNDER OF ALL WALKS BEYOND THE CATWALK
With an opening that set the tone for a pacy and eclectic show – think Victorian gothic fused with jockey stripes and street style – this season’s Acne aesthetic is busier, younger and more urgent. The look – underscored by an intentionally awkward palette of lilac, black, baby pink, cream and green, all pulled together by Seditionaries-inspired straps here and there to anchor leather waistcoats, skirts and jackets to the body – still evoked the crispness of seasons past. Yet here was Scandinavian precision benefiting from the clash and clutter of an altogether more UK sensibility. A graphic lift within the mostly solid-colour presentation underlined the collection’s influences: ‘Collage’, ‘Music’, and ‘New’ peeped out from layers of nylon drape. “Collage is very important to the way we work,” said the label’s Creative Director Jonny Johansson. “Music is my background and, of course, New is something we are always striving for. We just wanted to be honest in the way we work.” And so they were.