PHOTOGRAPHY BY MORGAN O’DONOVAN
REPORT BY JESS HOGAN
Donna Karan’s were pink, Derek Lam’s were teal, Michael Kors’ blue and green, and Peter Som’s mauve, green and yellow. Not their collections, but the cornucopia of colour splashed on the eyes of models in New York. Antoni & Alison, the first show of the week in London, joined the colour rush (above), with make-up artist Jo Frost offering a neon take on smoky.
Sockets were loaded with a blend of MAC Cosmetics in green, blue or violet – pencil, followed by shadow and layered with cream, in case you were wondering. So too at Bora Aksu, where Maria Papadopoulou mixed green with purple and burgundy on lids.
But a bounty of product on the lids doesn’t necessarily relate to a full-on look. Frost was very clear on the matter, saying, “The colour should fade out, it needs to be soft focus and hazy and matte. It makes the look so much more sophisticated. It’s very painterly.” And there, Frost has hit the nail clean on the head. Designers are showcasing hand-painted techniques, so it is only right that make-up – the art of
face-painting – should follow suit.
But a word to the wise. Eyeshadow should never compete with clothing, which is why a watered-down effect means you can use colour in a sparing, subtle way – think of it as washes and transparent veils on the eyes. Neon, pastel, it doesn’t matter.
This season, the eyes have it, so put a colour wash on. Far more fun than the domestic variety.