REPORT BY Heath Brown
Perhaps it’s his Scottish lilt, but did Christopher Kane really call his latest collection disgusting? “Well, I was thinking moiré is like the inside of a coffin and that’s why I like it,” he said backstage. This is how Kane often finds inspiration: he takes the off-kilter and makes it fabulous.
“Al Pacino’s film Cruising was a starting point,” said the designer backstage, “that whole feeling of underground clubs – and I’ve always loved that soundtrack.” The music for the show was mixed by fellow Central Saint Martins fashion graduate “Phantom” (aka David Bailey Ross), who also helps Kane with his prints. “I wanted something more dark, grungy, rocky,” Kane says. “I see this girl walking to a nightclub in a total downtown vibe. Seriously able to take control, but become a voyeur too.”
The collection certainly tapped into a darker side, but was elevated by Kane’s touch of the luxurious.
“This time it was a bit goth, a bit punk. I loved it,” said British Vogue Fashion Editor Francesca Burns.
“Coffin” moiré in “vial-of-blood red” hugged the body in beautifully fitted dresses and pinstripe was not just pinstripe, it was mink intaglio.
“The colours are so wrong that it’s right,” says Kane, who even carpeted the catwalk and seating in lilac.
“He’s a game changer,” said Grazia Style Director Paula Reed after the show. “Everyone is still catching up with his last whimsical collection, and then he casts a gothic shadow over everything – that’s what I love about him.”