Report by Jess Hogan
Photography by Anna Bauer
“Handsome” is not a word you would normally hear bandied about during a women’s ready-to-wear fashion week. Until this season, that is.
Aquascutum, House of Holland, Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Peter Pilotto, Antonio Berardi (above) and Christopher Kane have united (no mean feat) to present a beautifully boyish aesthetic.
At Vivienne Westwood Red Label, make-up artist Val Garland revealed she wanted the girls to appear “boyish and grubby-looking – but still gorgeous”, while at Unique, Hannah Murray created an army of girls who were “strong and hard but still super-polished”.
These are both completely new beauty directions for fashion houses that have, up until now, veered towards the outlandish and eccentric. In a season when the collections presented have appeared more grown-up and refined, it is a natural fit that beauty should follow suit.
At Antonio Berardi, Gucci Westman mused, “The collection is really sophisticated, so to complement it I am creating a handsome look. It is simultaneously glossy and androgynous, with a bit of toughness thrown in.” The key to this lay in making the look pretty: softly blown-out eyes and cute lashes, and then combining this with angular contouring and thick brows to add strength.
At Christopher Kane, Lucia Pieroni chose to bring out femininity through the skin, making it “luminous, glowing and radiant”. What better beauty directive to follow than one that enhances your natural features? It’s a boy/girl thing.