Report by jess hogan
Photography by Anna Bauer
Backstage at the shows, things are getting technical. Very technical, as make-up artists have been furiously creating bespoke beauty looks. Why?
Make-up is taking inspiration from and mirroring the specific fabrics and textures found in the designers’ collections. Think of this as a couture approach to beauty: handcrafted, artisanal and highly specialised. In other words, leave it to the professionals and don’t try this at home.
The first case in point: glitter lips at Kinder Aggugini, as created by Sharon Dowsett, who layered Swarovski crystals on top of bronze glitter pigments to mirror the gold embellishment that ran throughout the collection.
Indeed, glitter is a popular choice in the make-up artist’s atelier. Over at Marios Schwab, Val Garland custom-blended four types of glitter to dress the eyes in the same way as the sequins adorned the clothes. “It’s an idea inside an idea,” she says. “We are working with the designers to complement the textures in their collection. It is about make-up appearing 3D, to make it stand out as though it were an accessory. To do that, you have to blend your own products.”
Meanwhile, over at Paul Smith (above), Petros Petrohilos mixed varying shades of shimmering navy eye pencils on the sockets to replicate the accents of velvet. “I wanted the eyes to move, reflect and crease in the same way that velvet would. The shimmer gave a movable dimension,” he said.
It’s a true case of fashion going full circle.