Taking the rough with the smooth

Sunday 19 February 2012


Photography by Anna Bauer

“So what we’re doing is we’re putting the hair up… then roughing it up. It’s done, but it’s undone. It’s effortless,” said L’Oréal Professionnel hair stylist Luke Hersheson at Daks.

A contrast? Of course. An oxymoron? Absolutely. But this is the new mood for beauty: taking classic hair and make-up looks and making them modern, in a direct challenge to red-carpet beauty and backstage looks from seasons gone.

At Maria Grachvogel, MAC make-up artist Mel Arter left the complexion clean, powdering only the t-zone to let natural shine come through for a “fresh and modern skin texture”. It looked made-up, but the key point is that it really wasn’t. Ditto at House of Holland, where MAC’s Lucia Pica applied red lipstick, blotted it, added powder and repeated this five times so that lips packed a contemporary matte crimson punch.

It might seem like a lot of effort, just to make things less “done”, but such techniques are a must – and all the better for those of us trying to recreate them, for the very reason that they are far from perfect. This is how “real” women can do glamour.

Adam Reed, hair stylist at Felder Felder and House of Holland (above), explained that even though his styles had an element of deconstruction (the references were Kate Moss in her Johnny Depp days, and a fast cycle through the countryside, respectively), they should not be misinterpreted as messy. Quite the contrary, “it must still look elegant, and this all lies in the prep work, building up a healthy and shiny texture”. Being unravelled has never been so chic – or doable.

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