For his third solo outing on the LFW runway, Michael van der Ham switched up his fashion game. The Dutch Central Saint Martins graduate, who is part of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme sponsored by Topshop, is best known for his innovative vintage textile patchworks, which he turns into cool and unusual dresses. These were evident in the collection, but didn’t dominate. Seeing the limitations – not to mention the difficulty in sourcing the rare fabrics – in that particular technique, van der Ham has moved everything on. First of all, the patchworks: he didn’t do them on his buttoned-up blouses and easy silk T-shirts (such a clever, easy layering idea), he designed a print that looked like a patchwork. Smart. He also, like Christopher Kane and Erdem this LFW, discovered the fun to be had with Lurex-shot brocades – his pink floral brocade trousers and blouse combo was my outfit of the day. And all finished with very sexy van der Ham-print Louboutin shoes.